Alas, we’ve finally made it…to the Stissing House.
Over the course of the last year, I have neither been reminded of, nor thought of, a restaurant more often than Stissing House. This restaurant has lived rent free in my mind, visions of which were a daily and natural occurrence, and I had never even been. Until now.
The legend of Stissing House is of a Greek mythical quality. Built in 1782, the structure wherein Stissing House currently resides was once an 18th century water hole. Most popular around the dawn of the United States, watering holes served as social and political hubs vital in fostering a sense of community in our newly established American country towns. These establishments were typically made up of a tavern, lodging for travelers and their horses, and in the case of Stissing House, America’s first domed ballroom. Up until the first World War when steel and iron railroad tracks were dismantled for use in ammunition production, Pine Plains was a bustling cross-section of the state of New York. With the loss of an essential means of transportation through this area of the state, Pine Plains, and consequently Stissing House, fell off the map.
There is, however, a light at the end of this tunnel, which appears when film producer and beer tycoon, Christian Eisenbeiss, purchased the property in the 1990s and, together with Dale Mitchell, refurbished the home. Mitchell, an expert in timber construction, has built a plethora of notable projects throughout his career, one of which is his TapNZ NOTASHED venture, which utilizes salvaged wood from the old Tappan Zee Bridge structure to build hundreds of affordable, tiny homes.
One may be curious, given that this is a Tibi Eats article, why food has yet to be mentioned three paragraphs in. Well, Tibi Eats is, and always has been, about more than just the food. Our articles are about the people, the philosophies, and the histories of the special places that we are grateful to come across, and in this case, the incredible backstory of Stissing House helps to provide some additional context as to why we drove 70 miles, there and back, on a nine degree Saturday night, to experience the hospitality of Chef Clare de Boer.
Chef Clare purchased the home in 2022, turning Stissing House into the concept it is today. In “turning” I mean turning back, toward what Stissing House was in the 19th century, for influence in her approach to its present design, service, offerings, and more. Upon arriving to the historic property, one walks up a short path lined by snow capped flora and icicles so scenically placed that one may mistake them for purposeful decoration, which of course they are, purposeful that is, in that Chef Clare must have had a vision of her Stissing House at 8:00 p.m. in February complete with glistening snowflakes and inviting icicles to frame her mossy green, cottage style front door.
Our reservation was at 8:30 p.m., but we planned for a 30-minute buffer to enjoy a glass of wine and monkey nuts in The Woodshed. An escape from the city to immerse ourselves in a setting where waiting is no longer a stressful, anxiety inducing burden, but instead a craved and privileged luxury. As peanut shells are tossed into the crackling fire, its sound possessing a natural, effervescently rhythmic quality, guests settle into this cabin-like den by nestling into a unique variety of Bergère chairs with card games a plenty. I would be remiss not to note that the fireplace is ordained with Roseland iron tools, hand-forged made in Maine - a furniture concept that was started in 2023 by none other than Chef Clare and her husband, Luke. At 8:30 p.m., a hostess promptly enters to call our name and gently whisk us away to our table in the center of the dining room - wooden Windsor Chairs, by Roseland of course, locally sourced tableware, textiles, and ceramics, all contributing in both conscious, and subconscious ways to the deeply inspired and warm ambiance.
To start the meal: Ham, Jakes Gouda, and Pickles. This, as a wise soul once said, is the holy trinity of light bites. Jakes Gouda carved straight from the wheel, crystals and all, thinly sliced thick ham with a dot of punchy mustard (a love-tap, if you will), and an assortment of winter vegetables - celery, carrot, endive, and cauliflower - ever so slightly pickled so as to add a tinge of newness to each item while supporting their solo flavor stardom. The three, when eaten together, provide for a simply divine experience.
Moving along to the small plates: Curried Muscles and Winter Citrus with Mint and Endive. A plate of citrus in the dead of winter, with the bright notes of mint and a garnish of crushed Aleppo was the beautifully ironic dish of the night that when paired with a curried bowl of fire-roasted muscles, heat-scars and all, effortlessly primed the palette for the final savory course. Stissing House has a rotating pie dish, served with mash, its make up shifting with the season at hand. This month’s pie is a Steak and Ale Pie, traditional yet refined, with a crust the color of toasted caramel, and topped with flakey salt whose sparkles dance under the soft candlelight. Very rich, very luscious, very necessary this time of year up near the Catskills. Accompanying our pie was a crispy skinned, Wood-Fired Mackerel that sat atop a thin layer of parsley sauce, offering a fresh and bright alternative from which we mixed and mingled.
The entire night, as the kitchen team sent out dish after dish to the dining room, we would observe the occasional ice cream sundae and delectable slice of coconut cake fly by, only to be devoured in smiles and laughter shortly thereafter. So, we did just that. Pastry Chef Suzanne Nelson, formerly of Chez Panisse, has masterfully crafted a dream dessert offering, wherein a Coconut Cake shines above the rest, both in physical stature and pure, unadulterated decadence - the kind of dessert that is incredible in the moment, and somehow equally as special the next morning. A piece of Stissing House at home.
Our night came to a close while sharing a dessert with the couple dining at the neighboring table - our server overheard our inability to narrow our options, and sent over the dessert we both, coincidentally, left to be enjoyed next time. This was a longer article than usual, I know, but sometimes it takes time to reach the good things in life, like Stissing House. With the right company, an hour and a half drive up to Pine Plains, NY can feel like 20-minutes. Given that math, and that which is to be received at the end of the expedition, the trip to Stissing House is a sure and worthy endeavor, and I would implore any and all to make the journey.
Yum… you make me want to go there. Terrific article btw!
We love Stissing House! It's a hike for us from Hudson too, but not as far as you traveled from the city. It is magical in every season, but you make me want to go for the icicles!
Next adventure, you must come to Hudson, for cocktails in the Maker Lounge (best M-Th to see Tommy, everyone's favorite barman! Monday is the best local’s night) Then dinner at Feast & Floret, and back to sleep in a gorgeous room at the Maker....then morning coffee and pastries at Mel's, half a block away, but only open Th-Su, or a breakfast bowl at Little Rico, which I promise you won't regret. If you stay another night, then go ahead and try the Maker or Rivertown Lodge for dinner, unless you love steak, in which case you must go to the newly opened Pocketbook Factory and share one with a friend (invite me and I’ll be there on 15 minutes notice!). Best of all, you can leave the car behind, arrive by train: NYP to HUD= 2 hrs, and walk to everything! I have lived here 4 years now, and use my car maybe once every 2-3 weeks.You will feel right at home here. I have lived in a dozen big cities and small villages around the globe, and I can tell you this one is the friendliest of them all!