This week’s style class, Sarah and Keturah debuted many pieces from the new Fall 26 Collection. Traci was off camera chiming in. And I was eating foie gras in France trying to chime in but they had comments off. I’m sure they often wish they could just turn my comments off. Alas…
I’m going to provide some behind the scenes building of the collection and lead up to some of the styles shown. Traci and I started designing the collection a full 12 months ago in Milan. That’s where we meet with our textile designers and begin sharing ideas of what we’re in the mood for. At this stage, we go in pretty open minded - I don’t want to be locked in yet - fabric is arguably the most important part of the process, it dictates shape, vibe, and very literally the feeling on your body.
I had just seen the Paul Newman film The Long Hot Summer, and the colors were playing in my head.
The film struck a balance of incredibly sophisticated scenes in rich Ring 1 and 2 tones, moving to the freshly saturated colors of Ring 4 and connective tissue of Ring 3 colors that transitioned scenes from one to the next without ease.
In Milan, it was the rich and traditional menswear fabrications that caught our eye - herringbones, twills, and checks. A bit referential to 80s Armani, but only in idea not in replication. There were some icky fabrics too - ones that fight against anything too rich and beautiful - the good ick.
After a long day with our textile partners, Traci and I unwind with dinner, drinks and a notepad. We headed to a restaurant someone in our world had recommended, but considered the Tibi restaurant for a hot minute (does anyone know this place in Milan?)
Over drinks, we reflected on what we were in the mood for and just as importantly, what we were not. There’s a vintage trend out there right now - but I don’t think it’s vintage people are after so much as individuality. SO.MUCH.SAMENESS.RIGHT.NOW. Maybe this is so overwhelmingly felt with the proliferation in AI. Fashion brands all becoming mega brands reaching for $300mm plus in sales has created visual sameness, and AI has created verbal sameness. I can speak to three people and hear three distinct tones, but if they write something for me, I can’t tell one from the other. That’s bound to seep in soon to the way people actually speak in real life. I dread the time.
Traci and I thought about the moments in time that formed our personal style DNA. She and I have different style, no one would say we look alike. But the roots of it can be found in fond and admittedly romanticized eras we’ve traversed. How do we have so many similarities in dna yet depart in how we wear, how we style??? Hmmm….
When we prepared for our trip to SCAD to create the Fall 26 Film, I provided a campaign brief to the team that put thoughts and visuals to what Traci and I discussed:
Over the course of the next few months, Traci is sketching away and draping her ideas. She focuses on a few key concepts first - this keeps us from getting stuck in the weeds. The overarching goal was mixing in the strength of the 80s power suit but doing it in those relaxed Armani hey-day materials; tapping in to the sport and streetwear we love that is so rooted in utility and our lifestyle; and working with a hand that is pushing but restrained at the same time.
Traci: “Don’t think about this literally, I want something that is pronounced and sculptural on the leg. Remember the pants from Spring 08? 09? NOT THIS but something about this feels good…Behati did look amazing here - at the time…..
Me: oh man, I get triggered by this show - it was a SHOW SHOW - critics went ape on these - but in the end, we didn’t wear…
Traci: But you did wear the black pants….
Me: yeah, I remember i wore the whole fit, sans belt, to some event - throwback here - with Olivia Palermo and Zac Posen - but that was it. Like, it had to be a fashion event - I think in hindsight the pants broke the rule of three, they had the extreme drape, extreme tapering, extreme high waist, and then in a fabric that was simple - yes it was 4ply silk - but it was so specific to an event. Idk…..idk….
Traci: let me play in the studio - I hear you -
Traci: I’ve been draping and just took these off the machine - do these scare you? I love them. I think the wearability is there, the concept is there, and it’s just a great pant, not a trend…
Me: let me try…..leave them in my office
Traci: wait for me to try them on….I want to explain some things…
Me: k, I’m in my office…
Traci: I did the drape so that it could be buttoned in back, or left down - depending. It’s in a denim, but super refined - so it can go dressy but super casual - and I did the draping on just one side…
Me: ok, first, these are good - and I get why u did the draping on only one side - but 2 things - on the body, it’s an imbalanced feeling - to have so much more fabric on 1/2 your body feels strange, but not good strange….and I think the pants already are giving good weird, I don’t think we need to add asymmetry to the mix….
Traci: yeah, I see what u mean, but I think it’s the denim weight that is making you feel that way - try on the suiting and see if you feel the same way….
Me: holy fuck totally different, in this pant I like it just on the one side, the effect….I don’t feel an imbalance, the fabric makes such a big difference…
Traci: so side drape only one side on herringbone suiting; but both on the denim - is that weird?
Me: Not weird. Who cares? It’s just doing what’s right for the fabric, for the look. Remember when merchandising used to tell us we couldn’t do things like this??!! - that people would be confused….as if its better to make bad design than it is to risk confusion…
Traci: can you check out the sketches for the Tech Twill group, do you think anything is missing? You killed that pant there…..
Me: Something is missing, but it’s not a pant - the pieces in fundamentals already do whatever a pant there could do…..but I’m obsessed with the pocket and snap details you did, but I don’t wear mini skirts, Sarah and Keturah do, but not me…I don’t want to be left out here…What if we added a skirt that has the functionality of a pant - in our more classic style, but with these details? I’d wear all year round….
Traci: yes, yes, I‘m wearing both…
Amy: ok go traci with your mini skirt self….
Traci: I want a stirrup pant ….
Amy: We’ve had stirrup pants - what’s up….
Traci: no I want one that is literally a jogger - like a soccer pant - long rise, super chill but so chic….it will look different, I promise. Trust me….
Amy: holy shit. In love. I trust you, I’ll still question you, but I trust you.
Ok, I’ll give you more insights over the next couple of weeks - as I’m simultaneously working with Traci on Fall 27…..trust.
